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Emilien Feneuil Le Caqueray 1er Cru 2020

132.20₣ (Inc. VAT bot. 75 cl.) / Spain

132.20₣ (Inc. VAT bot. 75 cl.) / Spain

Features

Description

In the Montagne de Reims, where the limestone is the dominant feature and the wind sharpens the landscape, Émilien Feneuil decided to go against the grain: less make-up, more truth. His idea of artisanal Champagne does not come from chasing volume or "pleasing everyone", but from listening to specific plots as if they were solo instruments. Emilien Feneuil Le Caqueray 1er Cru is precisely that: a plot in Chamery (1er Cru), planted in 1988, on a half-slope with south-southeast exposure, on lean soils between sandy loam and clay-limestone matrices that give the wine an almost tactile mineral tension. There is a quiet courage in opting for precision when the easy thing to do would be to round off: zero dosage, no sugar to soften corners, letting the vine speak with its own accent. Everything is expressed through a single voice: 100% Chardonnay, Blanc de Blancs, born to tell the story of the slope, the light and the chalk.

Winemaking

At Emilien Feneuil Le Caqueray 1er Cru, the grapes come in to be treated with the minimum of interference and the utmost respect. Spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts takes place in used barrels: wood already tamed, more container than perfumer, designed to give texture without disguising the origin. Then comes the long work of time: a minimum ageing of 48 months in the bottle on the lees before disgorging, refining the primary energy of the Chardonnay until it becomes architecture.

Taste

In Emilien Feneuil Le Caqueray 1er Cru, when served, don't expect "friendly" fruit in the foreground: relief rules here. The nose can open with a serious, toasty, almost sun-warmed chalky touch, and then there are unusual nods: roasted pineapple, a flash of caramel, coconut and vanilla, with a shade of brioche more texture than sweetness. On the palate, the bubbles are not a decoration: they are a fine needle that chisels the centre of the palate. Without dosage, the wine is dry, straight, athletic, and the lees provide just the right creaminess to make the edge elegant, not aggressive. The finish stretches out with chalky salinity, an almost umami sapid point and a toasty aftertaste that remains a signature. Ideal with oysters, grilled fish or butter: terroir Champagne for those who enjoy it when wine does not seduce... it argues.

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