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Phelan Farm Savagnin & Chardonnay 2022

59.45₣ (Inc. VAT bot. 75 cl.) / Spain

56.48₣/ud (-5%)

Phelan Farm
San Luis Obispo Coast

Available in 5 days

Parker Points: 93
Peñin Points:  

59.45₣ (Inc. VAT bot. 75 cl.) / Spain

56.48₣/ud (-5%)

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2022 Chardonnay is slow to wake up but displays excellent potential once it does. Aromas of orchard fruits and wet stones give way to an ethereal, floating, pure palate that shows an unrestrained nature, gradually building richness as it noticeably reacts to aeration. The finish is similarly shy and latent before adding additional nuanced layers of complexity and length with time in the glass. This should be a fascinating wine to follow over the next few years, as there is clearly something special underneath the currently tense reticence.

Features

Description

On the coast of San Luis Obispo, where the Pacific turns into a salty breeze that caresses the vineyards, Rajat Parr decided to radically change the direction of his career. He left behind the high-end sommelier to holster his boots and get his hands dirty at Phelan Farm. There, embracing regenerative agriculture, with no tillage or synthetic inputs, he shaped a farm that looks more like a free-range ecosystem than a traditional farm.

His most recent and possibly most radical venture is this cuvée that blends Savagnin and Chardonnay, two varieties with very different origins, but which here merge in an absolutely sincere dialogue. The Savagnin comes from experimental grafts planted directly on ancient marine soils - a mixture of calcareous clays and fossil sediments - while the Chardonnay, from old Californian clones, sinks its roots in sandier, draining patches exposed to the coastal wind. The climate is cool, marked by morning mists and a thermal oscillation reminiscent of Chablis rather than California, adding tension and sharp natural acidity. Phelan Farm Savagnin & Chardonnay is born of an unorthodox vision: to unite the structured and the electric, the austere and the vibrant, in a single sip.

Winemaking

Phelan Farm Savagnin & Chardonnay ferments spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in 500-litre Austrian Stockinger oak barrels, where it also ages for twelve months on its lees, the wine is then transferred to stainless steel for a further five months. There is no fining, no filtering, not even sulphur dioxide is added. Each bottle is a faithful photograph of the place and the moment.

Taste

From the first nose, Phelan Farm Savagnin & Chardonnay is a landscape: sun-dried seaweed, lemon peel, a faint trace of sweet curry - Savagnin's trademark - and dried white flowers. There is no fruity exuberance or caress of vanilla, but rather broken stone, green walnut and sea breeze. The palate is a dagger of precision: tense entry, marked by austere citrus (lime, white grapefruit), with a saline background reminiscent of rocks after a storm. The mid-palate is almost tactile, as if chewing almond shells, while a vibrant acidity drags everything towards a very long, spicy and mineral finish, with notes of dried camomile, quinine and a faint echo of fermentation - yeasts, umami, living earth.

It is not a wine for everyone. It is for those who seek truth, texture, raw energy. For those who enjoy a good oxidativeJura, a Chablis without make-up or even a Fino en rama, this is a white that speaks unfiltered of its origin and the courage of its maker. A Californian rarity with a European soul, a wine that seems to have been sculpted by wind and salt.

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