Battenfeld Spanier Am Schwarzen Herrgott Riesling GG 2022
£68.95 (Inc. VAT bot. 75 cl.) / Spain
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2022 Mölsheim Zellerweg Am Schwarzen Herrgott GG reveals a delicately chalky bouquet with blueberry, woodruff and white pepper aromas. Silky and very elegant on the palate, this is a terribly fresh and mineral, finely tannic and persistently structured Riesling with lemon fresh bitters on the finish. This is a pure, lean but intense, full-bodied Riesling made to be aged for a decade. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in July 2023.
Features
Type of wine
Pairings
Style
Occasions
Winery
Size
Country
Region
Appellation
Alcohol
13.0%
Grapes
Serving
Between 10ºC and 12ºC
Winemaking
Description
At the end of the 1990s, when Rheinhessen was still more about volume than vineyards with a name and surname, Hans Oliver Spanier made an almost reckless decision: to go for the Zellertal, that border strip where Rheinhessen borders the Pfalz and the landscape becomes rougher, more vertical, more "geological". In Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott saw something that others overlooked: a limestone backbone capable of greatness, but here with a more sombre, saline undertone, as if the stone had a deep voice. The vineyard is historic and serious, with a marked slope and an identity born not of marketing, but of time: limestone and calcareous gravel, layers that darken in depth, and a microclimate that pushes the grapes to ripen with nerve, not fat. It is a 100% Riesling wine, and the aim is not "pretty fruit", but origin: tension, purity and edge.
Winemaking
At Battenfeld Spanier Am Schwarzen Herrgott Riesling GG, the grapes are hand-picked, because here any concession is paid for on the palate. After careful pressing, the must ferments spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, so that the vineyard speaks without make-up. Ageing takes place in used large wood, more container than perfume: it refines the texture, adds depth and leaves the precision of the Riesling intact. It is bottled as a dry GG (Grand Cru), with a vocation for cellaring: today it may seem restrained, tomorrow it will be unavoidable.
Taste
In Battenfeld Spanier Am Schwarzen Herrgott Riesling GG, a very fine flinty reduction comes to the fore: cold smoke, flint sparkle, pure structure. Then comes the citrus hit: lime, lemon, citrus peel like light squeezed on white stone. The palate is compact and chalky, "tight", with an acidity that does not shout but Mandó. In the centre is that signature of the place: serious salinity, deep rock, noble bitterness of lemon peel, fine herbs and a delicious austerity. The finish is long, dry, mineral to the point of obsession, and leaves the mouth clean and alert: a Riesling that doesn't seduce with smiles, it convinces with truth.
Shipping to Peninsular Spain
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Appellation Map
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Battenfeld Spanier
Rheinhessen
